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A Meal Is Not About Food

It’s the weekend and you’re eager to visit that new place you found on Instagram. You’ve made your reservation two days ago, considered your outfit — that jacket everyone says is just so you, a neat pair of sneakers to show off your personality—and sprayed on a perfume with a hint of sandal at the end: we’re in the early weeks of autumn, after all.

Matters of Taste: the Art of Eating Oysters

rom the great bear selling oysters outside Paris’ Hôtel Lutetia. He was part of the furniture in Saint-Germain – a huge, looming presence with deft, shovel-hands. We’d often exchange nods, then one day, we started talking. He shared a love for bivalves that’s stayed with me ever since. Nearly 25 years later, another teacher chimes in: “You have to bite into them, that’s when the umami flavours develop.”

The Joy of Cooking (for Friends & Family)

Butter.  Garlic.  Heavy Cream.  Shallot.  Basil.  Thyme.  These are words of affection, as far as I’m concerned.  Because when these ingredients are properly prepared – chopped, sauteed, simmered, braised, garnished – they’re one of the greatest ways on this planet to say “I love you.”

The Timeless Charm of Musso and Frank Grill: Hollywood’s Oldest Restaurant

When you read about restaurants and bars the latest and greatest is usually what makes the news. But as someone who tends to steer clear of food and drink trends (QR code menus, $25 mocktails, butter boards, etc.) I’ll take tried and true over shiny and new any day of the week. And for my money there is no place more tried nor true than The Musso and Frank Grill, the oldest restaurant in Hollywood.

Matters of Taste: Waste Not, Want Not

‘Good cooking,’ writes Patience Gray, one of its most underrated proponents, ‘is the result of a balance struck between frugality and liberality.’ Timely advice for eating well as another year dawns. Christmas is over; waists and wallets show the strain. Kitchen cupboards open empty, and there’s a fridgeful to finish up… What have we got?

Matters of Taste: Food is More Than Fuel

It was Julia Child, who taught me the distinction – and what a teacher she was! 6 feet and 2 inches of culinary inspiration. Blithe, bombastic, haphazard, endearing. “People who love to eat,” she said, “are always the best people”.

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