This story originally appeared on the Gents Cafe Newsletter. You can subscribe here.
When the sky is low over Belgium (“So low that a canal got lost”, sang Jacques Brel), especially during winter, Madrid’s blue sky is a decent choice for an escape: so please follow me for 24 hours in the capital of Spain, a city I love since I embarked on a six-month university exchange, a while ago…
I would start my day at the historical Café Comercial, following in the footsteps of Don Antonio. Throughout its 135 years of history, the cafè has been the place of tertulias— thematic discussions—in which Antonio Machado, one of Spain’s most famous poets of the early twentieth century, used to take part.
My feet would then guide me towards one of my favourite barrios (districts) of Madrid, Justicia. I love to wander its streets, admire its elegant buildings and stop by its nice boutiques, cafés and restaurants. A mandatory stop for me is Oteyza, a fashion house founded by Paul Garcia de Oteyza and Caterina Pañeda offering a cutting-edge style that draws on Spanish roots and tradition, featuring garments such as the Galerna jacket, high-waisted trousers, and the Spanish cape (and I suggest watching their “Roots” défilé from the 2018 Madrid fashion week). Two streets away from Oteyza, Only YOU, a 19th century palace-turned-charming hotel is an option to consider for the accommodation, and the bar is also worth a stop for a coffee or a vermouth.
As lunchtime is slowly approaching, I would head to La Maruca in the Salamanca district, a go-to for Cantabrian cuisine. The district also offers plenty of shopping destinations, so you might want to order a bespoke suit from Sastreria Serna or a pair of cordovan shoes from Mallorcan house Carmina. But don’t blame me if I tempted you…
If I had to choose one garden in Madrid, it would be the “Garden of Earthly Delights”. Is it a park, you may ask? Actually, it is a five panel triptych from Dutch artist Hieronymus Bosch—El Bosco—housed in the Museo del Prado, home to some of the most famous Spanish, Italian, Dutch and Flemish paintings. You simply cannot leave the city without paying it a visit. And, should you want to immerse yourself in a real garden, the Retiro is just a quiet walk away from the museum.
My day in Madrid would end in the Barrio de las letras, the literary district that owes its name to the literary activity of the XVI and XVII centuries, the golden centuries of Spanish art and literature. Refined food and an amazing wine list awaits you at Vinoteca Moratín. If only I could remember the name of the amazing bottle of Ribera del Duero I enjoyed with a very good friend in the autumn of 2022, to celebrate the future birth of my son…
