Matters of Taste: the Art of Eating Oysters
rom the great bear selling oysters outside Paris’ Hôtel Lutetia. He was part of the furniture in Saint-Germain – a huge, looming presence with deft, shovel-hands. We’d often exchange nods, then one day, we started talking. He shared a love for bivalves that’s stayed with me ever since. Nearly 25 years later, another teacher chimes in: “You have to bite into them, that’s when the umami flavours develop.”