This story originally appeared on the Gents Cafe Newsletter. You can subscribe here.
Oh, the eternal dilemma: big city life or country life? What’s better between the tireless, fast-paced rhythm of an international industrial city and the simpler existence in a secluded rural village, far from the stress of a nine-to-five job but also from many commodities? In all honesty, it’s hard to give a definitive answer. As it often happens, the real luxury is being able to choose, to balance between the two things. Enjoying the opportunities a big city can offer and getting caught in its mundane life, while knowing that as soon as it all becomes overwhelming the reassuring tranquillity of a country escape awaits.
This philosophy is fully embraced by Andrea Vailetti, a long-time member of the Gents Cafe community, who recently shared his appreciation for the hills south of Milan in his Community Talks feature. A photographer by trade, Andrea is based in Milano – but often leaves the city on Friday evenings to spend the weekend on the hills of Oltrepò Pavese and indulge in his favourite hobbies, which include restoring and riding old enduro motorbikes and hiking with his wife and daughter.
Andrea makes no mystery of his love for the countryside: the images he shares on his Instagram profile are pretty eloquent, just like the stories he tells over a good dinner together. So, after hearing many of his tales, we were quick to accept his invitation to spend some time together at his place and finally explore this fabled corner of Italy in person.
In this case, we chose the Mismo M/S Avail.
The drive from Milano is rather short – a little more than one hour of highway gets you there. The geographical distance however is nothing compared to the (apparent) chronological one: arriving in the Oltrepò feels like traveling fifty years back in time – and we mean this in the best possible way. Winding roads run up and down the hills, stretching through vineyards and thick woods. Here and there a village pops up, usually nestled on top of a hill, the bell tower rising over the tiled roofs. Curiosity arises at the view of every village: they all look similar from afar, yet each one has its peculiar details making it unique. It might be a renowned osteria, with stickers from the leading travel guides covering the front door, or the austere castle once home to some medieval ruler.
We had agreed to meet with Andrea in the square of one village. We had just arrived and were looking around the picturesque stone houses and cobbled roads when our friend pulled up in his trusty 1959 Land Rover Series II – a wonderful example of arguably the world’s most famous offroader, gifted by his wife on occasion of his fortieth birthday. We were soon immersed in the friendly, almost familiar atmosphere of the village, as Andrea cheered literally everyone we crossed paths with between the square and the bar. It might depend on the fact that he’s been coming here ever since he was a child, but the locals were kind, warm and welcoming to us newcomers too.
On his wrist, a UNIMATIC U4 watch that arguably matches the soul of the car.
Over a coffee, we held a quick and improvised brief to outline the plan. It was all too easy, as it was soon clear that we had no schedule and no rush – and it felt absolutely priceless. We jumped on the Land Rover – which, to Andrea’s delight, we soon learned not to call a Defender! – and started roaming around: the open-top vehicle, slow and steady, proved to be the ideal get-around for the bumpy roads rolling up and down the hills.
It didn’t take long to understand why Andrea treasures those lands so dearly: every corner we turned, every ridge we passed, a new and unexpected panorama opened up, prompting us to stop the car and snap some pictures, or walk around to explore a trail entering the woods. Allegedly, Oltrepò is heaven for mushrooms and truffles; but either we are too amateur of foragers, or some expert locals had anticipated us, we remained empty handed. Anyway, we just rolled with it, and were just happy to finally get into the autumn mood, and make good use of the clothes and accessories we had brought over.
During our time in Oltrepò, house headquarters was of course our friend’s home – an old rural house with solid stone walls enclosing decades of family memories. Andrea’s father and uncle originally rented the place from a resident of the village and made it the base for their enduro adventures. Then, in 1981, they ended up buying the house and slowly renovated it to turn it into a true country retreat. Naturally, it couldn’t miss a mancave – the garage where Andrea learned how to ride a motorbike, and where the family collection of classic rides sits shiny and proudly.
They say men are happy with little, and we often pride ourselves on that without pondering too much whether it is actually true. For us, this escape to the simple life of Oltrepò was yet another proof supporting this old adage, and we couldn’t have come home happier – or more recharged. And, at this point, we can also try to answer that eternal dilemma: the real luck is indeed being able to switch between the city and the country!
Photo credits: Chris Leustean
