This story originally appeared on the Gents Cafe Newsletter. You can subscribe here.
Portofino and the Cinque Terre are the Italian Riviera’s biggest stars. Nestled in Liguria, between the French border and Tuscany, their colourful villages have become some of the region’s most recognisable images.
However, every summer, countless visitors flock to these postcard-perfect destinations. They’re undeniably beautiful, yet it isn’t always easy to experience their original charm. Fortunately, the Italian Riviera has so much more to offer.
Over the past few summers, I’ve driven along the Autostrada dei Fiori, the spectacular motorway linking Ventimiglia to Genoa. Tunnels, viaducts and breathtaking coastal views unfold one after another. Join me as we discover a quieter, more authentic side of the Italian Riviera.
My road trip begins in Ventimiglia and its famous market, but it’s worth climbing up to the old town to enjoy sweeping views over the city and the Roia Valley. Further inland lies the medieval village of Dolceacqua, whose picturesque bridge inspired Claude Monet, as well as the nearby town of Bordighera with its palm-lined seafront and elegant Belle Époque villas.
Next comes Sanremo. The city is best known for its iconic music festival and as the finish of the Milano – Sanremo cycling race, but it’s also a delightful place to wander. Fans of literature may recognise it from Patricia Highsmith’s The Talented Mr. Ripley, where Tom Ripley murders his friend Dickie Greenleaf.
Just a few kilometres away lies the mysterious village of Bussana Vecchia. Abandoned after a devastating earthquake in 1887 and perched above the coast, this forgotten medieval village has been brought back to life by generations of artists and craftsmen.
Let’s continue along the Riviera di Ponente to Imperia, the capital of the Ligurian province of the same name. The city was created by merging the historic towns of Porto Maurizio and Oneglia. Perched on a hill overlooking the sea, Porto Maurizio charms visitors with its narrow streets and old town, while Oneglia, with its lively harbour, is the perfect place to enjoy focaccia and other Ligurian specialities.
Then comes Genoa, a city that rewards curiosity. Lose yourself in its labyrinth of caruggi, admire the grandeur of its Renaissance palaces, and stroll along the revitalised waterfront. Behind its austere façades lies one of Italy’s richest and most fascinating cultural capitals.
Let’s end our journey in Nervi, just a few kilometres east of Genoa. The Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi, stretching along the rocky coastline, offers one of the Riviera’s most delightful seaside walks, where the gentle rhythm of the dolce vita can still be savoured.
Ultimately, the Italian Riviera is far more than its famous postcard villages. And next time I’ll continue east, exploring its coastline beyond Genoa, all the way to La Spezia, in search of new hidden gems.
