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Founded in 1948 by the Landi family, the company that carries their name has established a reputation for being one of the finest trench coats and overcoats maker in Italy. The quality of their products earned them international recognition, and even allowed them to become suppliers of renowned international brands like Aquascutum.
Recently, the family decided to ignite new life into L’Impermeabile, a subsidiary brand founded in the 1960s and specialised in trench coats (impermeabili in Italian). Avoiding trends and focusing solely on quality and timeless elegance, L’impermeabile quickly became a favourite of menswear enthusiasts and Hollywood celebrities alike.
In this Brand Talks interview, Simone Landi, co-owner of the brand, walks us through the history of the brand and highlights the importance of balancing tradition and innovation.
Could you share your personal background and what led you to join the family business?
Ever since I was a child, the family business has surrounded me. We grew up in a typical “casa e bottega” (home and workshop) situation: our home was right upstairs from the workshop. This naturally led me to develop an interest in the business from a young age.
After my regular studies, I enrolled in Polimoda, where I attended marketing classes. Keep in mind that this happened in the ’90s, when marketing applied to the fashion world was not as common as it is today. It was a priceless experience because it broadened my knowledge and allowed me to join the company with a fresh mindset, which was also shaped by some internships in other companies abroad.
Right from the beginning, I have been involved in product, overviewing the development of new collections and the choice of fabrics, all while keeping an eye on the creative aspect. At the same time, I also followed closely the commercial side of the business. Creating a new product is just the first step, and that product then needs to be communicated and explained: you must convince buyers and retailers that it’s the right product for them and their stores. These early experiences allowed me to realise how closely related the creative and commercial worlds are.
As time passed, I got involved in the financial department; however, my greatest passion remains the creative side: despite the challenges it presents, it’s where the soul of a company really lies. To envision something and see it take shape is what gives meaning to this job.
I work closely with my family: my mother has a great experience and overviews the production; my father is gradually stepping back, but my aunt is still very much involved. They passed the baton to my brother and me, and we now run the company with the same passion and enthusiasm that they taught us.
Founded in Empoli in 1948, the Landi company is rooted in a historical trench-making district. How do you preserve its artisanal legacy?
Despite globalisation and the widespread tendency to delocalise, we still work very well in Empoli. It’s a district where manufacturing is quite easy, and we managed to keep our legacy alive with a rigorous approach.
We began as shirtmakers, to later evolve into producing trench coats, overcoats, down jackets and even fur coats. In 2017, after an accurate market survey, we understood we were missing a precise product niche and decided to re-ignite L’impermeabile, a brand we had been using in the ‘60s, during the post-war boom
For almost fifty years, the brand had remained in the background: we produced raincoats, but just as part of wider collections or for big British brands, including Aquascutum. Thanks to this established experience, revamping L’impermeabile has been a natural evolution. We did it in 2017 with five models – three for men, two for women – and the success was immediate. From there, the collection kept growing and evolving.
Your motto, “fashion is what is not fashionable”, clearly defines your philosophy. In an era dominated by fleeting trends, how do you keep your identity alive and resist market trends?
This vision is very dear to me. Fashion should never outshine the personality of who is wearing a garment, but rather enhance it. For this reason, we believe in products that compliment their wearers, without the need for flashy or excessive logos.
Over the last few years, globalisation and the rise of streetwear filled the market with over-branded garments because they were extremely profitable. However, we prefer to stay true to our heritage and craftsmanship. This is our narrative and what defines our identity.
Your manifesto criticizes contemporary fashion and its tendency to force trends upon people. Do you think L’Impermeabile offers its clients an authentic relationship with their garments, giving an alternative to the modern market logic?
Our models maintain a deep bond with their heritage. A part of the collection is perennial and is informed by sketches penned in the ‘60s. We tweaked the silhouettes slightly, as well as improving the fabrics, but the essence remained unchanged.
This approach allows our clients to establish a long-lasting relationship with their trenchcoats: many of them return to buy the same model, a sign that their purchases are not dictated by trends, but by the trust and appreciation they developed over time.
Our job doesn’t just involve crafting and selling, but also educating the customer: helping them realise that a well-made garment will become a part of their personal history for many years to come.
Your company embraced sustainability long before it became central in the world of fashion. What were the biggest challenges you faced while pursuing this vision?
Sustainability has always been part of our DNA because, for us, it is not a marketing strategy but an authentic concern. Looking at our collection, around 90% of the items are made from cotton or wool, natural materials which, therefore, don’t raise issues related to the recycling of synthetic fibres.
Most of our wools come from regenerated fabrics; we partner with local companies who specialise in this process and pursue a circular model that allows us to reduce our environmental footprint.
We are also extremely careful while selecting our raw materials: most of our fabrics are woven in Italy, with a minor percentage coming from England. This approach also contributes to sustainability and, most importantly, allows us to keep a close eye on quality from start to finish. Keeping a balance between these two aspects is certainly one of the main challenges we face daily.
What are the main differences between the Italian and British trench coats?
The British have been pioneers of the trench coat: the now iconic design was born for their armed forces. In Empoli, the production of trenches started after the war, when many local companies focused on this specific niche, thus starting the tradition we still endure today.
Our interpretation of the trench coat is more modern and fit for day-to-day city life: we work carefully on the length and volumes to improve comfort and wearability, while keeping it true to its quintessential elegance. Another area of focus is materials: we prefer softer fabrics and carefully research colours and textures to keep our coats contemporary and a bit more informal.
I would say that, compared to the British, we tend to be more innovative, aiming to strike a balance between tradition and modern needs. But there is no competition or rivalry: at the contrary, London is a fundamental reference and inspiration for us. We travel there at least twice a year, to meet our clients and find inspiration.
L’Impermeabile is synonymous with heritage and timeless garments. How did the brand evolve, and how can you keep this balance between tradition and innovation without losing its essence?
Speaking of products, our most iconic models are certainly the classic trenches, which faithfully replicate drawings from the ‘60s but have been updated in the overall volumes, fit, and materials.
Throughout the years, we always strived to maintain the right balance between innovation and tradition. To express this duality in the best possible way, we developed two separate lines.
We have the Grey Label, representing the soul of the brand: a collection made of timeless, elegant trenches and overcoats, with a focus on versatility. On the other hand, the Blue Label, which was launched later on and is more vintage and workwear inspired. It allows us to experiment with fabrics and colours, while not compromising on the artisanal quality that we always pursue.
Besides the classics and the iconic double-face trenches, which models are most appreciated by your customers, and why?
Among the latest novelties, we have introduced some models in the Blue Label collection which have gained popularity with our clients. The Boston Parka, for example, a waxed coat inspired by the nautical world which has become a staple of our collection and is now considered a classic, even though it’s not one of our historic models.
Another element which proved to be extremely successful are waxed cloths in general, like oilcloths and uv-ox treated fabrics, which are either washed or dyed, which have a strong but very elegant patina.
Then we have field jackets and overshirts, which are gaining more and more popularity, and some vests too. We are working to introduce these models too, but we want to make sure they are well refined rather than rushing to catch on trends.
Once a new model enters the collection, we rarely pull it back: clients must have the possibility to buy it back in the future. For this reason, we need to be very careful with novelties and only introduce two or three new models per year.
Are there any relevant moments in the history of L’Impermeabile that you would like to share with us?
There have been several meaningful moments throughout our history, both funny and emotional. One of the best sides of our job is building a genuine relationship with our community. Through our website and social profiles, we receive messages from our clients, who often get in touch to share their experiences. Some of them tell us about the trenches they bought many years ago, and are still enjoying today. This reaffirms our philosophy and underscores the importance of quality.
Recently, a Hollywood celebrity – who, naturally, I can’t name – conducted extensive research to find a trench coat, something unique and special. He ended up finding our brand and choosing one of our models: it was a great moment for us, and it once again proved that authentic quality transcends national and cultural boundaries.
Looking back at your career, what’s the most valuable lesson you’ve learned at L’Impermeabile?
Always keep your feet on the ground, and know how to listen. It’s easy to get enthusiastic when things go well – when the collections are successful and the market response is positive. But you should never feel invincible: the only way to keep growing is by being open to suggestions and listening to your customers and partners.
We work with many different clients: Americans, British, Asians. Everyone has their own taste and inclinations. This means we can’t impose a single vision, nor base our entire strategy on local trends. We must cater to all different markets, understanding what could be more successful in each one.
It’s not easy to manage such a multi-faceted collection, but the experience you gain over time will eventually give you a good understanding of the global market – of course, if you’re open to learning.
Is there an interesting or unexpected fact about L’Impermeabile that might surprise our readers?
There could be plenty: every day is an adventure in a small company like ours! However, if I had to choose only one, I’d think back to an episode that happened during one of my earliest business trips.
I was about 17 years old, and I was heading to a trade show in Kobe, Japan. On the plane, I was seated next to a distinct Japanese businessman, and we ended up chatting throughout the entire flight. Upon landing, we learned that an earthquake had struck Kobe, and he strongly advised me not to continue my journey to the city.
I felt lost: I was at the opposite end of the world, not knowing what to do or where to go. But the gentleman I had just met offered to host me, and I ended up staying in his home for four days while I coordinated with the rest of our team to recover our samples and arrange a trip to Korea, the next stop of the business trip.
I am still in contact with that man today, and I keep a strange but wonderful memory of those days. It’s been one of those chance encounters that change your life, and it taught me the importance of good relationships.
Is there a trip, a movie or a book that influenced your life or your involvement in the company?
I’m not a great reader – I must admit it – but I do love movies. And since I’m Tuscan, I definitely have to mention Amici Miei.
It taught me to take on life with the right balance of sarcasm and elegance. In difficult times, irony helps you face challenges without too much drama. You need to be clear-minded but light-hearted. I would say this is my mantra.
Besides your position at L’Impermeabile, do you have any personal passions or hobbies? How do they influence your work in the brand?
As a young boy, I always had an inclination for sports: I even was a professional footballer until my thirties. Besides football, I also practiced tennis and windsurfing. As I grew older, I took up golfing, which I find extremely relaxing, although it requires perseverance and discipline. These days, sports are no longer part of my day-to-day routine, although I make sure to keep in shape.
Around ten years ago, indeed, my greatest passion became another one: we bought a wine estate in Tuscany, close to Vinci, Leonardo’s hometown. It is a wonderful resort with a ten-hectare vineyard, olive trees, a restaurant and a hotel. I love spending my evenings there, breathing in the air of the countryside, sipping on a good wine and smoking a cigar while chatting. It’s the kind of vita lenta I find regenerating.
Naturally, I also follow closely the activities of the estate: I make sure everything is working smoothly, and I visit the cave and the vineyard… it is a mental detox even more powerful than sports. Sports are entertaining, but I see many friends my age often ending up with small injuries. With wine, instead, you don’t risk hurting yourself!
I must say, these leisurely moments spent in the estate also spark creativity: I often host friends and colleagues for dinner, and while chatting over a glass of wine, we get new ideas and perspectives. It’s easy to be creative when you’re relaxed.
