This story originally appeared on the Gents Cafe Newsletter. You can subscribe here.
Sanders is one of the oldest footwear factories in the UK: in 2023, the company celebrated its 150th anniversary. Megan Sanders, Director of the brand, shared the compelling five-generations story with us, underscoring the paramount value of heritage and talking about Sanders’ connection to actors Steve McQueen and Daniel Craig.
Could you provide insight into your background? How has your lifelong connection with the company influenced your journey, leading to your official entrance into the family business?
I’ve always been involved in the family business from a young age, starting with small tasks. During my school years and summer holidays, I needed pocket money, so I would ask Henry what I could do in the factory to earn some. I did all sorts of jobs like lacing, boxing, and laminating—every little task in the factory. I worked in different parts of the factory during my summer breaks, saving up money before going to university.
After finishing my degree in psychology, which I thoroughly enjoyed, I returned home for the summer and found myself broke from expenses. I approached Henry, explaining my situation and my need for a job. He suggested working in the office instead of returning to the factory, as they urgently needed assistance there. I agreed to give it a try, planning to stay only temporarily until I found a job I truly wanted.
Initially tasked with general office duties, I eventually moved into a role handling production in the factory. This involved compiling all specifications into production tickets for the factory workers. To my surprise, I found the work incredibly engaging and enriching. My knowledge of shoemaking expanded significantly from my earlier experiences in the factory.
Since then, I’ve never left. I became deeply involved in the art of shoemaking, discovering a passion that I hadn’t anticipated. Over the past seven years, I’ve taken on various roles—from production to sales—and I find immense satisfaction in the diversity of tasks I handle daily.
Additionally, we acquired a retail store in London, ironically just before COVID in 2019. It was originally a beautiful menswear and shoe store called John Rushton Shoes, and managing it has been my primary responsibility for the past five years. This experience has been incredibly enlightening and engaging.
Shoemaking is complex and challenging, but I continue to learn and grow with each new challenge that arises.
What changed your mind about staying with the company?
I think, naively, I didn’t realize the level of skill and design intricacies involved in making a pair of shoes—there’s so much that goes into it. When I was just lacing and boxing shoes, I didn’t fully grasp it. But as I delved deeper into the processes of English shoemaking and saw how many hands touch a shoe, I became fascinated. Learning about the intricacies of shoemaking was eye-opening for me.
As a brand, what core values and beliefs does Sanders embody, and how do these inform the design and manufacturing of your products?
Sanders embodies the renowned Northamptonshire commitment to quality manufacturing, celebrated worldwide. Crafting a Goodyear welted shoe involves over 250 meticulous processes, with each shoe passing through approximately 100 pairs of hands in our factory. This level of craftsmanship is unparalleled, and it’s something we take great pride in.
Both my great grand-father and my grandfather, who was still with us when I joined, instilled in me a fundamental belief: keeping production in the UK is crucial. It not only defines our uniqueness but also upholds the iconic tradition of UK manufacturing, particularly here in Rushden. To this day, all our shoes are crafted under one roof—a rarity in our industry. From cutting and closing to lasting and finishing, everything happens right here, fostering a cohesive production environment that ensures meticulous attention to detail.
My grandfather emphasized the importance of employing local talent, a principle we continue to uphold. Our entire staff is local, and we strive to maintain stable employment even during challenging times. We’ve always tried to keep as much profit as we can in the company, so in the hard times when we’re quiet, we can provide stability for all of our staff.
Furthermore, we prioritize sourcing locally wherever possible. Our laces are from Higham Ferrers, just minutes away, and our boxes from Kettering, a short drive from here. This commitment to local suppliers strengthens our ties to the community and underscores our dedication to supporting regional businesses
Nowadays, the fashion industry largely leans towards fast fashion, encouraging frequent purchases rather than investing in long-lasting products. How do you view this trend, and how do you position yourselves in response?
At Sanders, we emphasize our commitment to sustainability. While our shoes may be perceived as expensive, ranging from 250 to 400 pounds, they are crafted to last a lifetime. With proper care, they will endure and continue to serve you well. We focus on producing classic, traditional styles that transcend fleeting trends.
The beauty of a Goodyear welted shoe is its durability—you can wear it for 20 years or more, ensuring both timeless style and durability. If you return it to us, we can re-sole it, replace the welt, sole, and insole, essentially giving you a brand-new pair that will last a lifetime.
Our approach is to promote the longevity of our products. By investing in quality craftsmanship and timeless designs, we offer an alternative to the disposable nature of fast fashion. We believe in the value of purchasing fewer, high-quality items that endure, rather than constantly replacing them.
In terms of communication, Sanders makes a significant effort to educate its audience. How do you approach this aspect?
When we’re at events or trade shows, it’s fantastic because we can physically showcase our shoes, explaining each component and highlighting their durability. Similarly, in our London store, we can personally demonstrate the craftsmanship behind our Goodyear welted shoes. However, it becomes more challenging when customers are purchasing online and can’t physically see the product. This is where social media plays a crucial role. We use platforms like Instagram and Facebook to share videos and photos that illustrate the meticulous processes involved in making each pair of shoes. By showing behind-the-scenes footage of our factory and detailing the craftsmanship, we aim to convey the effort and quality that define our products.
We’ve ramped up our efforts with more videos, photos, and visual content to educate consumers about what goes into our shoes. It’s gratifying when new customers visit our retail stores and see our factory firsthand; they often express surprise at the level of craftsmanship involved. Our challenge is to convey that same message to a global audience who may not have the opportunity to visit in person—to show them just how much goes into creating each pair of shoes.
One of your designs is famously associated with movie icon and style legend Steve McQueen. Could you share how the “King of Cool” became a Sanders client, and has this association benefited the brand?
Our high top, often referred to as the Steve McQueen high top, is one of our most sought-after styles. It’s fascinating because customers frequently come into our store and ask specifically for the “Steve McQueen high top” by name. It’s become iconic in that sense.
The story behind it is quite interesting. At the time when Steve McQueen was wearing these boots, Northamptonshire was bustling with numerous factories producing crepe-soled chukka boots. One of these factories, Hutton’s, was responsible for making the boots Steve McQueen wore. Unfortunately, due to a recession, Hutton’s had to close its doors as they couldn’t sustain production anymore. Fortunately, my grandfather had a close friendship with the owner of Hutton’s. When they closed down, we acquired all their patents and machinery. We brought everything to our factory and have been crafting that same boot ever since. It was a natural progression for us, and we’ve proudly continued making it for over 50 years now.
This association with Steve McQueen has not only added to the popularity of our brand but also highlights our commitment to quality and craftsmanship. Customers appreciate the heritage and story behind the “Steve McQueen high top,” making it a beloved piece in our collection.
Recently, the “Steve McQueen high top” caught the attention of Daniel Craig. Can you tell us more about this?
Interestingly, Daniel Craig, often considered the new “king of cool,” visited our London store a few years ago. He purchased six pairs of shoes—three for himself and three for his stunt double. He wore them in the film Spectre, and since then, they have gained immense popularity. To this day, customers continue to inquire about the boots Daniel Craig wore in Spectre. It’s a testament to the organic appeal and heritage of our products.
This journey wasn’t a deliberate marketing move; it evolved naturally. Daniel Craig appreciated the boots Steve McQueen wore and liked them enough to purchase them himself for use in the film.
What are some of your most beloved products, and what do you think makes them stand out to customers?
I believe what sets us apart from other shoe factories in Northamptonshire is our strong military heritage. While many factories focus primarily on retail products, we have always maintained a deep connection to military footwear. Sanders has a proud history of supplying boots to the British Army, armed forces, and overseas military units dating back to World War I and World War II. This heritage is integral to our identity, and we continue to produce military boots alongside our iconic Hi Top chukka boots and a range of excellent retail products.
Among our offerings, we are renowned for our casual boots, including chukka boots, Chelsea boots, and stylish loafers in suede. Despite our diverse range, our military heritage remains a core part of our product lineup. On our website, alongside classic menswear styles, you will find a selection of military boots that often surprise customers. One standout example is our Wellington boot, a tall, high-leg boot worn by soldiers during passing out parades at Sandhurst. It’s a unique product that reflects our commitment to quality and tradition in military footwear.
Another distinctive item is our George boot, a tall Chelsea boot with a distinctive spade box at the back, a feature rooted in military tradition. It’s worn by military personnel of various ranks, embodying the classic Sanders style.
Sustaining a family business into the fifth generation is a remarkable achievement. What do you believe has been the key to Sanders’s longevity, and what have been the principal challenges faced along the way?
For us as a brand, diversity has been crucial to our longevity. We’ve always maintained a broad spectrum of products and services, which has proven very effective. From retail to our specialization in military footwear, including riding boots crafted for the Household Cavalry and the King’s Troop around Buckingham Palace, our portfolio is extensive. This diversity allows us to weather fluctuations in any one area, it’s a balancing act that has served us well over the years.
Reflecting on my grandfather’s wisdom, he always emphasized the importance of keeping our factory busy to support our dedicated employees. This ethos has driven our strategy: when one aspect of our business faces challenges, another can step in to maintain momentum. We are proud to be one of the few Northamptonshire shoe factories involved in such varied productions, from military and riding boots to our iconic high top chukka boots and stylish loafers. Additionally, our partnerships with private label brands provide another layer of stability—if demand for Sanders products slows, these collaborations often pick up the slack.
And what do you think is the secret to passing on the same passion and willingness to work for the family business through generations?
I believe it’s the people—the dedicated individuals who bring our craftsmanship to life every day. When you witness the skill and dedication firsthand, whether in our factory or through our social media channels where we showcase our processes, it’s truly inspiring. Seeing the craftsmanship firsthand and the effort that goes into each pair of shoes is amazing, and it fuels our passion.
And you know, seeing people like Daniel Craig wearing our boots—it’s the most wonderful feeling. I ran into Dermot O’Leary the other day, and he was wearing Sanders chukka boots. He was very pleasant. I said hi, introduced myself, and mentioned, “Hi, I’m Megan, from Sanders. I own the factory that makes your boots.” He responded, “Oh, that’s amazing.” It’s moments like these that make it such a delightful experience. However, it’s not without its challenges; overall, it’s a great endeavor.
Are there any meaningful moments in the history of Sanders that you would like to share with u
I wouldn’t say there are specific memorable moments from my time, but what stands out to me is the journey of our factory. We’ve been in this beautiful location for a century now. Initially, we were situated on the other side of Rushden, in a building where my great grandfather worked. As our needs grew, we moved to our current location. However, after just ten years here, tragedy struck when a fire broke out in the factory. My grandparents, who lived across the road, witnessed the blaze from their bedroom window. Despite the devastation of losing our old wooden building, they were determined to rebuild from scratch.
The new factory they constructed was considered quite modern at the time—spacious, with glass ceilings that flood the workspace with natural light, allowing us to see every detail of our craft. It’s fascinating to me that despite the fire, they saw the need to rebuild and did so with such innovation. We’re still in the same spot today, over a century later, continuing the legacy.
The fire was in 1924, so a hundred years ago today. I just find it remarkable that the whole thing burned down and they rebuilt it from scratch. Now, we’re still in the same building in the same place. Actually, it’s quite beautiful—it’s not a modern factory at all. The roof may be falling down, but it has so much history and character that it’s kind of beautiful just the way it is. It’s really authentic. If you visit many other Northampton shoe factories, they’re very modern and clean, but that’s not us. Ours is beautiful in its own way, and that’s how we love it.
Is there a book, a movie, a trip or a place that has inspired your life or the direction of the brand?
A book that impacted me deeply was about the founder of Reebok, “Shoemaker: The Untold Story of the British Family Firm that Became a Global Brand”. It focused on production and manufacturing, resonating with me due to our shared struggles. The book emphasized the importance of diversity and trying new approaches, as sticking to one method can lead to stagnation. This insight has inspired me to maintain our diversity—from military boots to our iconic Steve McQueen High Top Chukka boots—and to continuously innovate. Our Chukka boot remains a bestseller, but it’s essential to explore new avenues and evolve as a brand.
All Photos © Ben Lloyd
