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For one and a half centuries, the Church family has been a foremost player in the world of British shoemaking. After being at the helm of their namesake brand for generations, and following Prada’s acquisition of the company, the fifth generation of the family moved on to a new adventure: Cheaney. William Church shares the story of his family and their business enterprises with us in this new issue of Brand Talks.
Could you share with us a little about your background and what sparked your initial passion for craftsmanship and shoemaking?
I believe that a passion for shoes runs in the family. I am a descendant of one of the three brothers who, along with their father, founded the footwear brand Church’s in 1873.
My journey into the trade was perhaps a bit unconventional. Church’s Shoes was a publicly listed company, and the family advice was to first pursue my own path. If I wanted to join the footwear business later, the opportunity would be there, but it wasn’t an obligation. So, I completed a degree in real estate and worked for one of the real estate companies in London for five years. I didn’t join Church’s until I was about 26.
At that age, after living in London for five years, it felt like the right time to move back home to Northampton and join the family business. Initially, it was quite a cultural shift from working in a London office to being in a shoe factory. However, as I spent more time there, the environment and the work began to resonate with me. Week by week, month by month, I integrated into the business, learning all about the processes and everything involved. Eventually, it became my new way of life to the point where there was no turning back.
What’s your earliest childhood memory about shoes?
Although my father began his career as a chartered accountant, he spent 35 years with the Church’s group.
One of my earliest memories is from when the factories used to work on Saturdays. I would go into the factory on Saturday mornings with my younger sister. We enjoyed playing on the intercom phones from office to office and exploring the factory. This is a fond childhood memory of mine. I started visiting the Church’s factory when I was about four or five years old.
When did you decide to step away from Church’s and start a new adventure with Cheaney?
The real opportunity came when Prada acquired the full share capital of Church’s after I’d been there for only four or five years. So, quite early on, the family no longer ran the company; it was under the Prada group’s control. After a few years, Prada decided to sell the Cheaney business, which was part of the Church’s group. At that point, my cousin and I, the last remaining Church family members in Church’s—fifth generation—realized this was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. It was a now-or-never moment. This meant leaving Church’s, resigning from our positions, and so on. But we were able to buy a fantastic business with lots of potential. The factory and all the craftsmen and craftswomen who make great shoes were there, and we saw the opportunity to grow the Cheaney brand.
One thing about the footwear business is that it’s so people-dependent, human-driven in any factory. I describe a factory as a community of people. Many of them live very close, within two or three miles of the factory, making it a short journey for them. The people become a very key component of the whole business. That’s part of what emotionally connects you to the trade—you have these people doing amazing things, and you’re relying on that network, that community, to collectively create a great shoe. It’s quite an intricate environment, but you get to know everybody, and you become more emotionally connected and attached to the business.
What was the main vision behind the Cheaney’s buyout in August 2009?
The main vision was to transform Cheaney from what had become almost a private label house for the Church’s group. While the Cheaney brand existed, it was represented in a modest way. Our goal was to take control of the business and leverage the existing foundation to grow the Cheaney brand significantly.
The biggest challenge in opening or running a shoe factory lies in acquiring the skilled craftsmanship necessary to make a quality shoe. When Cheaney was up for sale, we recognized that the real asset was the skill and expertise embedded in the business. Although you can buy buildings, machines, and contracts, the true value was in the craftsmanship and potential for growth.
Our aim was to build on that foundation and reduce our reliance on private label work. While we still do private label work with some prestigious brands, we wanted to focus more on developing our own brand.
As a brand, what core values and beliefs does Cheaney embody, and how do these inform the design and manufacturing of your products?
Our core values are centered on being made entirely in England. We handle the entire process from start to finish in the UK; we don’t outsource any part of the production. We compete strongly on the “Made in England” label. Additionally, our products are Goodyear welted, which is a key part of our process and a specialty of Northamptonshire.
We also emphasize heritage. Cheaney is a heritage brand that has built goodwill and know-how over many decades to reach where it is today. These core values define our identity. Behind all of this is our skilled team, who are essential in delivering and maintaining our standards.
Cheaney recently collaborated with Brompton and Bremont. Could you tell us more about this partnership?
We’re all independent British manufacturing businesses, each in a different category—footwear, bicycles, and watches. The idea behind the collaboration was to celebrate and highlight British craftsmanship by creating a set of products that shared a common thread beyond just being “Made in England.” For example, we included a copper stud, which you’d find on a Brooks saddle, in our boot design, and this same copper detail is also present on the Bremont watch. This element of copper serves as a unifying theme across all three products.
The designers from each brand worked together to create a cohesive concept. Leather became a natural choice because it is used in our shoes, the Bremont watch strap, and the saddle of the Brompton bike. This collaboration was not just about celebrating craftsmanship but also about leveraging our combined reach.
When we launched this in early June, we were able to promote it to our customer base, and so were Brompton and Bremont. This cross-promotion benefits all parties involved, as we support each other’s brands through our respective communities of customers and online platforms.
Did you make any other partnerships like that in the past?
We recently collaborated on a small collection with Sunspel, a clothing brand. We have a good relationship with them, and they wanted to include some English-made footwear in their collection. This resulted in a co-branded line, marked as “Sunspel by Cheaney” on the shoes.
About three years ago, we’ve also collaborated with Barbour. The project involved repurposing old Barbour jackets. They provided us with around 200 very old jackets whose fabric was no longer repairable. Rather than discarding them, we used sections of the jackets to create a unique line of boots and shoes, combining leather with the waxed fabric from the jackets. This allowed us to give new life to the old fabric and repurpose it in a meaningful way. These items were exclusively sold at Selfridges department store.
With the growing focus on sustainability and repurposing, the collection resonated well with people’s aspirations in that regard. It was well-received and appreciated for its innovative approach and commitment to sustainability.
What are some of your most popular products, and what do you think makes them stand out to customers?
Our most popular products are primarily our boots. We are particularly strong in this area compared to other Northampton manufacturers. One of our standout models is the Jarrow boot, crafted from Horween Chromexcel leather. This leather has a waxy, oily finish and is used in a military-style boot that has proven incredibly popular. The distinctive look and durable design contribute to its appeal.
Our logo, which reads “Joseph Cheaney & Sons Bootmaker,” reflects our strong emphasis on boots. We believe our boots offer a competitive edge, though our competitors might have their own perspectives. Overall, we have a wide range of boots in our collection, which highlights our expertise and influence in this category.
How does your content strategy, focused on creating educational content on your website and social media, as well as showcasing behind-the-scenes aspects of your production process, contribute to and reinforce your overall brand identity?
Our content strategy is designed to emphasize that we are the makers of what we sell, distinguishing us from many retailers who simply buy and resell products. It’s important for consumers to understand that our products are crafted in-house, which provides assurance of quality and authenticity.
Through educational content and behind-the-scenes glimpses into our production process, we aim to build confidence in our brand. Social media and other channels allow us to offer insights into our factory, which is not accessible to the general public without an invitation. By sharing this behind-the-scenes look, we give consumers a sense of the craftsmanship and dedication involved in making our products.
We also apply this approach in our store environments. Rather than traditional displays of dark wood and monochrome photographs, our stores reflect a contemporary take on heritage. We incorporate elements like workshop boards and tools into the design, echoing the factory’s look while maintaining a modern aesthetic. This creates a unique and engaging atmosphere that conveys who we are and what we stand for.
Overall, our brand identity is not just about the product itself but also about the experience we offer. From the store environment and staff interactions to the educational content we share, we strive to ensure that every touchpoint reflects our commitment to quality and craftsmanship. Our goal is for customers to leave not only with excellent footwear but also with a positive and memorable experience that reinforces our brand values.
Can you share any meaningful moments in Cheaney’s history since you joined the company that you would like to highlight?
One of the most significant moments for us was opening our store on Jermyn Street. It was a symbolic milestone because nearly every notable UK shoemaker has a presence there. Opening a store on Jermyn Street signaled that we had truly arrived in the industry.
Another major milestone is our upcoming store opening on Bond Street. This location is well-known and prestigious, and we anticipate it will further elevate our brand. It represents a step forward in presenting Cheaney in a more prominent and impactful way.
Is there a particular book, movie, or trip that has inspired your life or the evolution of the Cheaney brand?
One of the most inspiring experiences I’ve had was a backpacking trip I took in my mid-twenties. I traveled to Nepal, north of India, where the Himalayas run through the country. I trekked along ancient trade routes in a stunning river valley, surrounded by rugged terrain and breathtaking views of Annapurna Mountain.
This trip was incredible not just for its natural beauty, but also for the sheer reliance on good footwear. With no traffic or modern amenities, my only means of travel was my own two feet. The quality of my walking boots was crucial—they needed to be durable and comfortable for the challenging conditions. This experience underscored the importance of having the right footwear for the right purpose.
While this trip may not have directly influenced Cheaney’s design or branding, it certainly reinforced my appreciation for high-quality footwear. It made me realize how essential good shoes are for comfort and functionality.
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