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Finding True Style: Why Authenticity Always Comes Back To Comfort

A conversation with Oliver Roscher
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This story originally appeared on the Gents Cafe Newsletter. You can subscribe here.


Meet Oliver Roscher (@blue_notes_oli), a German journalist, editor, and freelance author based in Switzerland. His deep-seated passion for vintage menswear lies in exploring and documenting vintage garments from the late 1940s to the early 1960s, drawing inspiration from icons like Marcello Mastroianni and the rebellious spirit of the 50s. For him, true style always comes back to authenticity: finding the clothes you feel comfortable in and developing your own natural look. 

Where do you live and what do you do for a living?

I have lived in Switzerland for 14 years now. I am German originally, but I am Swiss too now. I am a journalist, editor, and a freelance author. I have worked for different publishing companies, but the main part was for more than 10 years for the Swiss National radio and television as a news editor.

Besides that, I always wrote for different magazines and different marketing companies. When I finished my work with television, I put more effort into my freelance jobs. With my writing, I cover what I am passionate about, which is mainly vintage men’s fashion from the 40s to the early 60s, and a bit of the 80s too. I am also a webmaster for a school’s website and I do some marketing for different companies. At the moment, I’m working with a German company that makes leather bags and a new fashion company that creates capsule fashion—essentially collections of around 10 items that all fit with each other.

I like these jobs very much, but my main focus is going to fairs, networking between companies in the vintage scene, and writing about it. I have recently launched a newsletter about it, called Oli and The Blue Notes, covering brands, shops, interviews, and more about the world of denim and vintage clothing.

What are your main passions and how do you cultivate them?

My main passion is vintage men’s fashion, specifically the period between the late 40s and early 60s. This includes the film noir era of the early 50s, with their iconic “trench coat style”, but the 50s in general is my anchor. You could sum it up with a white t-shirt and blue jeans as  staple pieces. However, I also love the Riviera style—the classic Italian and French Riviera look for summer with linen shirts and sandals. I also admire the early 60s suit style; slim suits like those worn by James Bond on various occasions, or Marcello Mastroianni, of course. For me, he is the blueprint for the slim-fit suit and the Dolce Vita look. More broadly, I love all old movies, music, and cars. I adore the advertisements from that era, like the Martini affiches or the car ads. 

I read a lot about it on social media, of course, but whenever I am able, I invest in books. These are mainly about denim, but also about all the main pieces of vintage menswear from the late 18th century to today. They really allow me to understand the connection between everything style, and how much of it originated from military style, and a favourite title is The Rebels’ Wardrobe by the founders of Denimhunters. It covers all the most important garments in men’s fashion history and describes them very well. It’s a big book and a bit of a “must-have” for me.

How did you first develop an appreciation for style? 

My main inspiration came from old movies; I watched a lot of them as a kid and a young teenager. I developed a few different styles during my early years—many of which were honestly trash—but one phase involved trying to look like a 1950s teenager. For a few years, I tried to dress exactly like them with blue jeans, white shirts, Baracuta jackets, Chuck Taylor sneakers, and motorcycle boots. I even had the specific haircut, of course.

I lost that style for a while in my 20s and went through different phases that I’m not particularly proud of. Then, later on, it came back—I’m not entirely sure why. I think I reached a point where I wanted more value from my clothes. I didn’t want jeans I had to throw away after six months; I wanted to wear them for years and years. So, I focused on developing my own style and got deeper into the vintage scene. It was something that had always been in me since childhood.

It started as more of a “rugged” style with a lot of denim, but now it has shifted to also incorporate some tailoring. I enjoy wearing a tie or a nice shirt. However, it is always connected to that mental image I have of early James Bond movies, Mastroianni, and that rebellious 50s teenage style. That is my foundation.

What does being well dressed mean to you? 

I guess the most important thing is being authentic, whatever that may be. You see so many people dressed in clothes that don’t fit, and you also feel that they are not comfortable in them. They just wear it because it’s the current trend. I think the most important thing is finding clothes that you feel comfortable in.

It means having your own style and not just copying others, and it should come natural. Clothes shouldn’t be a costume: they should be comfortable for the person wearing them. This is something I had to learn as well; I made a lot of mistakes and put too much effort into my clothes in the past. Now, I’m much more relaxed.

How do you find time to unwind and slow down?

Finding time is not easy because I don’t have a lot of it, but when I do, I usually do two things. The first one is going into nature; I just take a walk and I remember to breathe, which I think is very important. I spend at least 30 minutes in nature, though usually more like one or two hours. I always try to take a night walk if I can. I live close to real nature, with many forests around my place, so when I go walking, I just head into the forest.

The other thing is simply grabbing a coffee. I enjoy drinking coffee, even if it’s just an espresso and going outside to reflect and enjoy the surroundings, whatever they may be, whether it is raining, the sun is shining, or if it’s dark or light. I usually do this in my garden.

What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever received and who gave it to you? 

My father, who passed away a few years ago, always told me this one thing: “Fly high and fly far”. He encouraged me to be smart and curious, but to be clever at the same time. It’s a simple sentence that always rings in my head on the most important occasions. This is what I always remember.

It’s a simple sentence that always rings in my head on the most important occasions.

What has been your most memorable or adventurous trip and what made it so special?

I have two, and both were by train. The first was the only time I’ve been to the United States. I traveled from New York to Los Angeles by train, non-stop, spending three days and three nights in a seat. It was incredibly memorable because you cross an entire continent, starting in the “beehive” of New York and watching the country change through the window. You see the Rust Belt cities and then the desert, where old cars sit in the fields just like in the movies—it really is one-to-one with the films.

What made it special was the challenge of it; it wasn’t very comfortable. I was in a cheap wagon with a rough mix of people,and since they didn’t have airport-style security, I always slept with one eye open: American trains are definitely not Swiss trains! 

Despite being a hurdle to jump over because I didn’t have much money, it was invaluable. It felt like the old 19th-century expeditions going from East to West. I spent my afternoons in the panorama car; I remember talking to other passengers for hours, and even though I don’t recall the details, it’s more of a feeling I took with me. Stepping out into the summer vibe of Los Angeles after three days felt like entering a totally different world.

The second trip was through Vietnam, from Hanoi in the north to Ho Chi Minh City in the south. The nature changes completely as you cross the equator of the country. We booked a night train, looking forward to a good sleep, but the sleeper was full of small black bugs—everywhere! You could say I always end up in adventurous situations when I get on a train for a long stint. However, I accepted it was part of the experience, and the landscapes and people I found as I headed south made everything better and better.

What’s a place that holds significant meaning for you, and why?

It sounds like a stereotype, but it’s Venice. I love the city for several reasons. First, I got married there—again, bit of a cliché—but the city is just unique, built on water and still standing despite all its problems. If you forget the tourists and visit in March or November, you see something new behind every corner: a new canal, a restaurant, or a piazza. It is so exciting and unique.

There are many places in Venice where I can sit alone and just watch. The water makes it special, particularly after dark when you are alone on the streets. If you walk through Venice by yourself at night, it’s incredible; all you hear is the water lapping, and you feel connected to the  whole world although you are on an island. When I was first there, I said, “When I get married, it will be here,” regardless of what anyone else said. And I am so glad we made it happen.

I also love the relaxation of it. An example? When you’re hungry, you don’t necessarily have to sit down in a restaurant; you can just have a few cicchetti and move on to the next Osteria. When I am there, my mindset is completely different from my daily life. It is very special to me, and that’s why I always keep coming back.

Is there an object or piece of craftsmanship in your life that holds deep meaning? What makes it special?

Yes, an analog camera from my father, which he gave me ten years ago. It’s a camera from the early 60s and I still use it. I’m not a good photographer; I just do it. It is a Voigtländer—an old, very traditional German company that made excellent cameras, though today they are mostly known just for their high-quality lenses. It is a true piece of craftsmanship and I love it. It’s very heavy, and you can still smell the history of my family in the camera and the leather bag around that protects it. I remember my father having it with him during holidays or on special days., and I really appreciate the fact that I can still use it.

I would also mention a collection of old records made of shellac, which was the material used  before actual vinyl—although generally all records are referred to as “vinyls” nowadays. These are records from the mid-50s, from when the music of Bill Haley and Elvis first made its way to Germany. Like the Vogitländer camera, they also belonged to my father: I keep them in a special case and, once a year, I take them out and listen to them.

What are your three favorite movies and why?

My absolute favorite movie is Back to the Future part one. For me, there’s only one Back to the Future, and that’s the first part; the other two just don’t keep up. I watched it as a teenager, and it represents a perfect symbiosis of the 50s that I love and the 80s I grew up in. To me, it is a perfect movie from start to finish—nothing feels out of place. I love the soundtrack and the styling of Michael J. Fox in both eras. It also has that 50s-style teenage romance, which I really enjoy.

I am also a fan of Westerns—both American and Spaghetti Westerns. The most extraordinary one is Sergio Leone’s The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. My parents wouldn’t let me watch it when I was young because they thought it was too brutal, and later I understood why; for its time, it was such a rough movie. I was so impressed by the lead actors, especially Eli Wallach. His performance was so great that you could put it in 2026 and it would make no difference. It’s a rough and exciting film.

For the third place, it’s difficult, but I’ll choose a James Bond movie, probably Octopussy. Most people consider it one of the worst Bond films, but again I love it for the atmosphere. It was made in the early 80s, and that feeling combined with the soundtrack makes something click in me. I watched it in the cinema once, and it remains a favorite. It’s not about the quality of the acting; it’s purely an emotional thing. There are probably better Bond movies, but I love that one anyway.

What are your three favorite restaurants/cocktail bars/coffee shops and why?

First is Osteria al Squero in Venice, a cicchetti bar that I’ve actually written about. I love it because I used to go there with my then-girlfriend, now wife. We always stopped there for a few cicchetti and drinks. The cicchetti taste amazing, and the setting is unique—you are right in front of an old wooden house, the squero, where they still build gondolas—I think it’s the last active one in Venice. Sitting there by the canal, drinking a spritz, and watching the sun go down is just a unique experience.

The second is Caffè Al Bicerin in Turin. I’ve been to Turin a few times, and this is one of my favorite cafes. I am totally addicted to sweet things, and I love the Bicerin drink; if I’m not drinking espresso, that is my favorite. The surroundings are incredible—the cafe is over 250 years old. I visited it during our “wedding trip” through Italy, which ended in Turin. 

The third place is in Zurich, and it’s called Kronenhalle. While the restaurant is very good, classic, and expensive, I am specifically talking about the Kronenhalle Bar, which has been there since 1965. It is a very classic cocktail bar with an atmosphere that echoes the old bars of Great Britain, featuring dark green leather and wood. They make the best cocktails and drinks there. It’s a great place to go, have a few drinks, and just enjoy the time.

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