This story originally appeared on the Gents Cafe Newsletter. You can subscribe here.
I had already visited Japan once during Sakura (the cherry blossom season), but travelling during Aki (the late autumn) with my partner and our two-year-old son was a unique experience – and the Japanese were so amused to see a blond boy!
Japan attracts me in many ways, offering a blend of modernity, authenticity and traditions. Its capital, Tokyo, is very diverse, from its bubbling districts of Harajuku and Ginza to the quietness of hidden gems such as the Happo-en garden. And despite its obvious immensity, no other city has ever felt so safe and accessible to me.
A two-hour ride on the Shinkansen bullet train – so smooth that the only thing I missed was sipping a nice cocktail while contemplating the snowy Mount Fuji – brought us to Kyoto, where the coexistence of future and heritage is even more evident. Japan’s former capital is the cultural heart of the country, gathering old time aesthetics, historic temples and Zen gardens. Traditional restaurants, tea houses and boutiques sit side by side with modern cafés and trendy shops. Contemplating the serenity of the Ginkaku-Jo (Silver Temple) garden, with its red maple leaves, was a pure bliss.
Food was a highlight of the trip: you won’t find a place with more Michelin-starred restaurants than Tokyo, but the city – much like Kyoto – also offers many affordable options to enjoy Japan’s culinary treasures. Dining under the train tracks in the Yurakucho district is an authentic experience I highly recommend. When it comes to sweets, I could not have been happier as a chestnut lover: the Japanese make delicious pastries out of it during the fall period. I was also conquered by some delicious “viennoiseries” that had nothing to envy to the best European bakeries.
And just like chefs and bakers, it seems to me that Japanese cloth makers are driven by the same passion and dedication. I was already familiar with Japan’s high-quality denim, as I own a pair of Resolute selvedge jeans, but I found out that the Japanese also excel in outwear, classic menswear and tailoring.
I drew my own shopping route thanks to recommendations from Bonne Gueule and Permanent Style London, as well as from menswear enthusiast Loic Fanel.
I had a personal crush on brands like United Arrows, Beams and the more “niche” Bryceland & Co, a blend of tailoring and heavy workwear. Moreover, the historical department store Mitsukoshi in the Nihonbashi district is worth a visit. I had never seen such a variety of Italian clothing outside of Italy, and its deli department in the basement is a feast for both the eyes and the stomach!
I could continue endlessly, just like the city of Tokyo never seems to end… and the suitcase is unfortunately always too small!
Please remember to keep a little space for chestnut sweets, and arigato gozaimasu!
