This story originally appeared on the Gents Cafe Newsletter. You can subscribe here.
The name Squale will probably ring a bell to watch enthusiasts. Founded in 1959 by Charles Von Büren, it quickly became a pioneering brand in the world of diving watches – a Squale Master was on the wrist of Enzo Maiorca as he set his freediving world record in 1963.
Today, the company is lead by Andrea Maggi, son of the original Italian distributor, who acquired the brand in the late Nineties with the blessing of the Von Bürens and committed to perpetuating its spirit of tradition, quality, and honesty.
In this Brand Talks interview, we sat down with him to discuss the legacy of the company, its most iconic models, and the rigorous process involved with the creation of a new Squale watch.
Besides your job at Squale, what are your main hobbies or passion, and how do they influence your work in the brand?
One passion that has been with me since childhood is music – especially opera. It’s something that has definitely shaped my personality, my way of being, and even how I view life in general.
Then there are other passions that are more directly connected to my work at Squale. The brand is tied to the world of the sea, and I practice activities like swimming and scuba diving. I’m part of a masters swim team – we even compete in open water races – and more broadly, I’m really passionate about outdoor sports: cross-country skiing, swimming… all things that really put watches to the test.
Your family has a longstanding tradition in the watch world, first as distributors and later as owners of the Squale brand. What are your earliest memories connected to watches and the family business?
When I was a child, once school was out, I used to join my father on his business trips. It was a special time for us to be together, and I genuinely enjoyed it – we’d visit clients, I’d get to sit beside him during meetings, and sometimes even take notes…
My most vivid memories are tied specifically to Squale watches and our visits to the Von Büren family, who owned the brand at the time. We’d go during holidays, in summer or winter. This was over 50 years ago, back when my father was the brand’s distributor in Italy. At first, it was a mix of fun and boredom for me: I had to sit there quietly while my father and the Von Burens talked for hours. But as I got older, I started being more involved – and that’s when it truly became enjoyable.
I remember their home in Haute Rive, on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel, so clearly. They lived in a building located right above the workshop. There was a couch from which you could see the lake… such a beautiful spot, right on the water. And Mr. Von Büren was an extraordinary person, so there were plenty of lighthearted, happy moments too.
Even now, I feel a deep connection to all of it. I’ve kept a strong bond with the Von Büren family, especially with Monique, his daughter, who still lives by Lake Neuchâtel. When I decided to acquire the Squale brand in the early 2000s, I made sure to talk to her first. She loved the idea – she was thrilled. That was the moment I decided I didn’t want to be just an importer or wholesaler anymore; I wanted to truly take the brand into my hands and carry it forward with the same spirit I had come to know as a child.
Another important memory is when my father gave me a Squale 1515. It was a mid-size watch with a mechanical movement. That moment was a turning point for me – it’s when I realized that this world might stay with me for life.
What does it mean for you to carry on the Squale name today?
Leading Squale today first and foremost means recognizing the work that was done in the past and committing myself to carry it forward with integrity. That’s also why I chose to keep the relationship with the Von Büren family alive – I wanted to continue a tradition, not simply acquire a brand.
As a young man, I was very familiar with how they worked, how they thought, and what their values were. I truly believe the Von Büren family played a key role in pointing me in the right direction. If you just cherry-pick certain elements from a brand and discard the rest under the assumption that “it’s already been done, now it’s time for something new,” you risk stripping it of its very essence.
Of course, there are aspects that, inevitably, have to be approached differently today than in the past. In our case, one of the most significant changes we’ve made has been in marketing – especially online communication. But that’s because the context has changed dramatically: today, the way we relate to the market, and more broadly to watch culture, is completely different from what it used to be.
Besides its practical function, what does a watch represent to you?
This isn’t my own quote, but it truly deserves to be mentioned: “A watch is the only piece of jewelry that always looks good on a man.” Of course, depending on cultural background or personal taste, a man might wear other kinds of jewelry as well. But the watch – beyond its function of telling time – is the only one that holds universal recognition.
I believe this applies especially to Squale watches: by nature, they’re divers – boldly proportioned, built to withstand extreme conditions. To be fair, while they’ve traditionally been associated with a more masculine world, we actually have many female clients who specifically choose these models, drawn to their toughness and design.
Today, there are countless tools that can tell you the exact time – often with far greater precision than a mechanical watch. And yet we still wear them. More than anything, that shows how deeply watches are embedded in our culture.
Squale has maintained a strong and coherent identity. How do you balance innovation and tradition to respect the roots of the brand?
The most important thing is knowing exactly where you come from. Only then can you assess each new idea with clarity, weighing it against the foundation you carry with you. It’s a delicate balance, and often it means setting boundaries for yourself: resisting the urge to follow a trend just because it’s popular at the moment, and instead finding a way to interpret it in line with your own identity.
The temptations are constant: changing dimensions, colors, movements, functions… The allure of the new is always strong – especially in an era like ours, where product evolution moves at a very fast pace. But innovation must always serve consistency. Small steps, never at the expense of what has been carefully built over time. Mistakes are easy to make – and many are inevitable. That’s why, to me, progress means first and foremost avoiding the avoidable ones.
A crucial part of this process is maintaining an open dialogue with the people who actually use our watches. Right now, for example, we’re working with Vincenzo Ferri, a champion freediver and a friend of ours, who will be spending 40 days in the Red Sea for training. We’ve given him three models to test in the field. What I really want to understand is how he experiences our watches during his dives.
We’ve conducted a study on how colors behave underwater – how, as you descend, certain tones disappear. One of the watches we gave Vincenzo has a multicolored bezel, and he’s already sent us video footage taken with an underwater camera. The goal is to explore whether we can associate colors and depths in a functional way, perhaps even developing a kind of chromatic depth gauge. Of course, it might not work – maybe he’ll tell us it’s completely unreadable, and the whole thing will be a dead end. But that’s the essence of research.
That’s also why developing a product sometimes takes years. There’s a natural slowness to the process – and it’s necessary. It also takes courage to pull the plug on a project that you’ve invested time and resources in, even when you’ve become married to the idea. But sometimes, the consolation lies in thinking: “Not now – but maybe in the future, with new materials or a different approach, we can try again.” And that, too, is part of the journey.
Some Squale models have become true icons in the world of divers. What would you say are the most relevant models, and what makes them so special?
The most iconic Squale model is certainly the 1521, also known as the “500 Meters.” It’s been in production for over forty years, and that alone says a lot. I believe its continued success comes from a perfect balance: a case with ideal proportions – not too big, not too small – a clean aesthetic, and above all, excellent legibility. It’s one of those watches that even people who usually prefer more compact models end up appreciating once they wear it. At a trade show, a customer once described it as “a polite diver.” I think that captures it perfectly.
Another very representative model is the 2001, which has a strong personality of its own. Its case has a distinctive shape – very much a product of its time, the 1960s – but it still retains a great deal of elegance. Not only does it continue to be well-loved by the public, but it also holds strong appeal for the press. On more than one occasion, instead of asking for a fee for an article, a journalist has asked if they could keep the watch. It’s a gesture of appreciation we truly value.
Lastly, there’s a one-of-a-kind piece that I’m especially attached to. It’s a model hand-engraved by Mario Terzi, a master engraver from Brescia and one of the most respected names in the world of firearms, particularly shotguns. He crafted a case adorned with shark motifs using special resins originally developed for engraving on guns – materials that turned out to be perfectly suited to dive watches as well, thanks to their resistance to high pressure and extreme temperature changes. The original idea was to produce a small series, but the complexity of the work forced us to stop after the first piece. It remains a unique creation, and one that holds great symbolic value for me.
How does a Squale watch come to life?
Everything always starts from a project, from a clear idea. There are, however, two distinct approaches: on one hand, the development of an entirely new model, driven by a specific need or an inspiration related to something that doesn’t yet exist in our catalog; on the other, the evolution of an existing model, perhaps through variations like a different bezel color, a new strap design, or other functional and aesthetic details. They’re two very different processes, each with its own dynamics.
In both cases, functionality is probably the main aspect we focus on: a watch should be beautiful, of course, but above all it must be practical and durable. When I think of a new model, I like to approach it in a very hands-on way: if I wear it and it works, that’s already a good sign. One of the things I pay the most attention to, for example, is readability. You test that in the field, and from there it becomes immediately clear whether a color combination or dial layout works or not. I remember a project I had in mind but eventually decided not to pursue, precisely because of legibility issues. And for me, given how I understand the product, that just wouldn’t do. It wasn’t consistent with the message I wanted to convey.
We also collaborate with external designers. At the moment, for instance, we’re working with an Italian designer based in Geneva who used to teach design at the city’s Polytechnic. I’ve known him for a while – we met at industry fairs – and he’s a well-respected figure in the world of watchmaking. Even when working with external collaborators, though, it’s always a process of constant dialogue. Every idea needs to be filtered, adapted, assessed. In the end, every detail has to convince me first: it’s a kind of tailoring process where everything needs to find its proper balance.
Right now, for example, we’re working on a watch that, if all goes according to plan, will be unveiled soon. It’s a collaboration with the Italian Navy to create a corporate timepiece – intended exclusively for Navy personnel and not for public sale.
What sets a Squale watch apart in the divers segment? Is there a distinctive technical or aesthetic detail?
One of the most distinctive features of many of our models – particularly those we call “professional” – is the crown at 4 o’clock. It’s a choice that follows a precise ergonomic logic. In that position, the crown is less bulky and more comfortable to wear, especially when using a wetsuit. It prevents scratches on the wrist, and at the same time, it doesn’t require an additional crown guard, which would create another sharp edge.
It’s a simple but highly effective solution, reflecting our pragmatic approach, focused on the real-world use of the watch in sports or professional environments. In a sense, it also protects the wetsuit, preventing tears or accidental damage.
Another important technical feature is the crystal: today we exclusively use the highest-quality sapphire, a huge leap forward from the past when they were made of plexiglass. Specifically, for watches designed for great depths, we use very thick sapphire crystals, sourced from Japan, because they are the most resistant. We’ve conducted several tests on hardness and shock resistance, and the ones we use today are truly the best in terms of performance.
I believe that this focus on quality and functionality, combined with consistent design choices, gives our watches a strong identity. A recognizable, instinctive personality that is evident at first glance.
Squale has a faithful community of customers and enthusiasts. What surprises you the most about the bond with your clients? Is there a story that highlights this special connection?
I think the relationship that many people have with Squale is one of the things that still surprises me the most today. It strikes me how some enthusiasts can form a truly authentic and deep connection with our brand. And it doesn’t move me just because they appreciate our watches, but because it’s beautiful to see that there are still real, genuine passions out there.
Recently, we met two guys who live in Geneva at the latest edition of Watches and Wonders, and we spent a long time talking together at our booth. At one point, we told them they were welcome to visit us in Chiasso if they wanted. And so they did: after the fair, they took a day off, booked a hotel in Lugano, and came to see us. They spent the entire day between our offices and the factory, and in the end, we even took them out for dinner. It was a wonderful moment, and it really speaks to the kind of relationship that can form with people who truly love what we do.
I believe this is possible also because we are an independent company, where human contact is still at the center. In a large corporation, with thousands of employees and billions in revenue, it would be unimaginable to spend a day with the president or with the people working on production.
Another episode I hold dear happened a couple of years ago: a finance broker, who discovered our brand through some friends, wanted to create a limited edition of 50 completely customized watches. We worked together on the design, incorporating COSC-certified movements, and finally delivered the watches during a private evening in Milan. He himself involved and excited his friends, creating a small community around this special edition. I think this, too, perfectly illustrates the strength of the bond that can be created around a brand like Squale.
How do you envision the future of independent watchmaking in a market dominated by big corporations?
I believe that, compared to the past, smaller brands are quite lucky. The internet has given them the opportunity to be known worldwide, overcoming the physical and dimensional limitations of the past. When I was young, there were brands that had a strong regional presence but struggled to get noticed outside of that area. Today, instead, we can reach virtually every corner of the globe with just a click. Distribution has also changed: back in the days, you had to hit trade shows with your briefcase, hoping a local distributor would notice your product. Today, in a sense, it’s much easier.
For this reason, I remain positive. The watchmaking market is mature, but there are always new opportunities, and I believe the independence of brands can continue to grow, especially with the support of new technologies.
If you had to describe the essence of Squale in three words, which would they be?
Tradition, quality, and honesty. It’s a product that stays true to its purpose, with easy and clear readability. An essential watch, where every detail is designed to be practical. Quality is fundamental: a dive watch must be robust and reliable, always. Tradition, on the other hand, represents the connection to the history of underwater watchmaking, which for us is a central element. These are the three pillars that define Squale.
Is there a trip that influenced your life or the direction of the brand?
A trip that changed my perspective was one to Australia in 2000. A time in which I was still uncertain whether to continue with the business and take over the brand. During the trip I was wearing a Squale watch, and a gentleman complimented me, saying “What a beautiful watch.” I was struck by the fact that even in Australia, so far from home, our product was appreciated. At that moment, I thought that if the watch was receiving compliments there, I could truly continue with the project. It was one of those moments that, although not immediately, had a profound impact on me. Now, years later, we even have a distributor in Australia, and that trip certainly seems to have influenced the direction of the brand.
