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Being Well-dressed Doesn’t Have to Be Loud

This story originally appeared on the Gents Cafe Newsletter. You can subscribe here.


Meet Mr. Martin Juhl Mikkelsen (@thesoftarmour) from Copenhagen – Lecturer in Leadership & Management and Co-Owner of Copenhagen Menswear Archives (@cphmensweararchives).

Martin, what does it mean for you to be a Modern Gentleman?

I am not sure that there is a fundamental difference between the Modern Gentleman and the Classic Gentleman. The context may have changed, but the virtues are probably largely the same. It is about respect for other people, their time, values and situation – and for our planet.
For myself, I strive not to take myself too seriously and to be self-disciplined, considerate and empathic towards others.

When it comes to style, where do you mostly get your inspiration from?

A total cliché, but Permanent Style is my bible. Mr. Simon Crompton has this certain British style of writing and engaging in dialogue with the community that is quite inspiring. This is definitely what sparked a more serious interest in clothes and style for me some years ago. Instagram is of course another daily source of inspiration, as is the classic menswear literature.
Finally, street style in Copenhagen, where I live, can be quite inspiring. Although rarely close to my style, it is nice with some completely different input.

What’s your personal style signifier?

My glasses. I’ve been wearing optical glasses since the age of 10. My entire youth I hated those glasses, but over time I’ve learned to embrace them. They serve a key function in my daily life but also say something about what I want to reflect.
Nothing fuzzy, just low-key and classic. My current glasses are the model Hampton from Garrett Leight in a quite matte dark-medium brown tortoise.

What are your favorite wardrobe essentials?

Dark brown leather-soled Crockett & Jones loafers, grey flannels, a knitted roll neck or OCBD shirt, a sport coat and a watch on a leather strap. I never get tired of it. I am building a wardrobe that is soft, subtle and versatile.
Being well-dressed doesn’t have to be loud.

What are your main passions and how do you cultivate them?

The most important things in my life are my two children and my girlfriend. They are the greatest source of joy (and, sometimes, frustration) in my life. They are without a doubt my greatest passion.

That being said, I’ve always had a huge passion for music. Music is a part of my daily life, whether to move or to sustain mood and attitude. Pre-Covid I have enjoyed extraordinary live performances, both in small venues like Vega in Copenhagen and Columbiahalle in Berlin, with 2000 drunken Brits in Bruxelles or London, or along with 60.000 others in arenas like Stade de France (Paris) and Nya Ullevi (Gothenburg).
I look very much forward to that again – hopefully soon.

Another passion that has been with me for more than 25 years is following professional cycling – Tour De France, Paris-Roubaix and the like. To me, cycling has a wonderful narrative with heroes, villains, wins, losses and sacrifice – and spectacular performances.

Finally there is of course clothes. The last year or so I’ve grown increasingly interested in how we can utilize clothes that have already been worn, but still are way too good for shredding for recycling. This is second hand, pre-owned, pre-loved, milsurp or whatever we call it.
We gain or lose a few pounds, change style or something else, and the good clothes just hang in the closet, unappreciated.
Why not have someone else enjoy it instead of fueling more fast consumption?
This is why I co-founded Copenhagen Menswear Archives where we offer quality menswear on a commission sales basis. We also provide consultancy on building a core wardrobe where pre-owned pieces can be integrated.

Tell us what can never miss in your liquor cabinet.

I don’t drink much alcohol anymore, and I am sad to report to your readers that I don’t have a liquor cabinet. But when I, on a rare occasion, go out and have a drink or two, I like to be able to taste the alcohol. Another cliché, I prefer an Old Fashioned or a Dry Martini.
Again, nothing too fuzzy.


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